My email reminded me today that another campaign for another miracle vintage has just begun. This time it is 2006 Burgundy, and I am still tired and broke from the 2005 assault. My own affliction is Pinot Noir, both from France and the new world. There are other habits that cost more — but only a few.

The 2005 Burgundies were touted as wines from a vintage that comes along maybe once in a decade, possibly two or three times in a century. Prices rose to unbelievable levels. Retailers were given smaller allocations than earlier years. Now, most of the 2005s have sold through to distribution, and we hear little of it. But oh, the glorious 2006s!

Which gets me to the point of this rant. I have now followed Burgundy introductions for over 30 years. In that time, I recall 12 “vintages of the century” (1969, 1978, 1983, 1985, 1990, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2002 and 2005). Each in its turn was touted as better than anything before it. I, for one, bought the hype almost every time. Each vintage was, in fact, very good, but I noticed that once a vintage was safely in my cellar, the newest vintage (the one currently for sale) was described as even better.

I am not against selling. It makes the world go round. But, after watching it for 30 years, I am very wary of hysterical type. You should be too.

Paul Fortino

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